3d Printing Tip For Keeping Object On The Print Bed.


I consider myself a 3D printing guru now that I have had over 1000 hrs of prints. I have had almost every type of error, miss print, extruder issue out there. But now I have figured it out and have successful prints ever since. One of the major issues with faulty prints is the print lifting off the platform. This causes many issues with un-attended prints. Jamming, clogging, warped prints, the list goes on. I've tried glues, blue painters tape, hairspray, they helped very little and made a mess as well. I found out through trial and error that PLA sticks better to "Rough" surfaces better than smooth. My makerbot platform has one side smooth the other side has a matt looking finish. both sides had lifting issues when printed with and with out tapes and glue. So I decided to try something out. I used a fine grit sandpaper on the matt side, sanding the entire platform evenly. wiped it own with windex to remove all residue. replaced the platform and started a print job. I also removed the "raft" and printed the model as is. When all was done.....PERFECT print. no lift, no warp, even through out. the sanded platform works like a charm every time. When removing the print, I use a pocket knife, go under the print from a corner and in 2 secs the print pops right off. This method saved me a lot of time and money. So if your using PLA on your prints, consider my tip for the platform and use the extra saved cash for a EZ v4!


You are making me HOT for a 3Dprinter. But, I cannot afford it. So, I am happy to have a Greek papa that will print this for me.


Thanks for the tip!


Good tip. My method for zero lift is a little more involved. I've had the UP! plus for about 2 years now and have run more than 15Km of filament through it. I have a glass plate on the build platform. I took a bottle of neat acetone (£5 shipped for half a litre on eBay, lasted me for over 8 months).

I'll put natural ABS into the acetone bottle (old prints, failed prints, support material, whatever's going) to make the acetone very milky. Using a hobby paintbrush, ill warm up the platform with the glass sheet bulldog clipped on. Dunk my paintbrush (don't worry if it solidifies after each attempt, 10 seconds in the acetone and it'll be like new) in the mixture and paint a small area of the platform, repeatedly. The heat from the platform speeds the evaporation of the acetone, and by brushing lightly as you go doing one area at a time. You leave behind a clean, rough, thin layer of ABS. It's the perfect surface to print to in ABS or PLA. Never had a lift since using that technique. Had a large part so well adheared to the glass I broke the glass trying to remove the part Tongue (letting the part cool after printing more or less makes it let go of the glass on its own).

Food for thought.



We might have to co-host a 3D printing "lessons learned" alongside @aameralis! Great job dude!


@Jason Zeiler thanks anytime I can contribute.


Here is a video of my recent shoulder guard. you can see the sanded build plate and the adhesion of the print in progress.


Good tip, but.... that's not the kind of printing they were refering to in this thread.

EDIT; Heh, he (er um it) got me.


@Troy... Post was removed..... Looked like spam to me


Yeah, that was a weird spam! It was instructions on how to print using Microsoft Word. Makes me wonder what the incentive for some spam bots is. Sometimes the spam we receive has nothing to do with selling a product and does not even contain a link to a website. It is just strange information about nothing in particular...