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Ez-b V4: Voice Activated Pt Cruiser!

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While im finishing up my LeXI 3000 project, I want to get a head start on my next project which is installing a EZ-B v4 in my car. My idea is to have most functions voice activated. mainly the ignition. here my question. Since the ignition mainly uses 2 wires to touch to start the car, what would be the best and safe way to connect the ignition to the EZ-B? I was thinking of getting a digital on/off switch, connect the 2 wires and then control the switch from the EZ-B. Any help,ideas or suggestions are always appreciated and applied.

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Maybe a relay?


My first thought would be a relay. You would need to have a TIP 120 transistor between the EZB's poet and the relay coil. Rich has a thread showing this switching setup.


I'm not too clued up on the PT Cruiser (I'll withhold my opinion on the car but this statement probably speaks volumes) but generally speaking auto electronics is not straight forward.

First, check the car properly. If it's any newer than about 1990 then chances are it wont be just 2 wires that touch together, there will be a bunch of security to bypass also. Anything after around 2000 is pretty much controlled by the ECU and control modules so a TIP and/or relay may cause more trouble than it's worth. You may need to embed it deep in the car's electrical system, or "bodge" (I believe that's a British term) it together and also rely on the ignition keys etc. etc. It depends how deep in to the car you want it to be. Do you want to keep the need for keys, immobiliser, security and whatever else the PT Cruiser has in it's electronics or do you want the EZ-B to take care of it all?

Once you have gotten around all of the security and the car's electronics then it may just be a case of using the TIP/Relay method as has been previously mentioned.


@ rich Actually, I was talking to my driver here at work and he asked if i had remote start in my car. I did but it was starting the car sometimes on it own and i later found out it was due to my alarm system messing up. short story, the connection is still there, so i figure i just need to add the "relay" to the connection and back to the EZ-B.


I'm not convinced that adding the relay in would work since it is all linked in to the alarm system too. It depends on how sophisticated the system is really. If it's dumb as dirt then yes, a relay will probably do it all but if there is any kind of security, immobilisation etc. then you may run in to problems.

I know my car (Audi S5) is riddled with security and it takes a lot of work to do the simplest of modifications to anything connected to the electronics - heck it doesn't even let me drive off if I don't have the seat belt on (well it does but I need to press the brake and manually deactivate the electromagnetic parking brake).

These new (>2000) cars generally can become a headache if you want to tinker with the electronics. A lot of things need coding to the vehicle for them to work and the days of just touching 2 wires together are long gone.

Obviously, try the relay on the alarm connections first, it is a simple and cheap method and may work but I suspect it may well need something more than that. Is it an after market alarm or was it factory fitted? If after market it may work and the alarm may bypass the car's security issues.

By the way, you found my other passion...


You are going to have to consider when the car starts , you don't want the relay to keep the starter engaged. So timing will be very important. i think that you might need two relays. One to turn the power on and leave it on until you want to turn it off. The other to momentarily engage the starter circuit.

Hope this helped.



You would be able to use the OBDII port on the car to get the data which could be used to determine if the car has started and then shut off the starter switch - however there are more serious things to check before even attempting to start it - if it's a manual transmission is it in gear? Is the parking brake on? Depending on the bus used in the electronics, you may be able to pull data required and possibly do a whole lot more too.

You'll also need to check and find a way around the dangers associated with having the car do anything it was not originally intended to do. For instance, most now have sophisticated dead locks on the doors which stop the doors being able to be opened from the inside once the car is locked from the outside. Depending on the car it can work different ways, for instance my old E36 BMW wouldn't activate the dead locks unless it knew the drivers door had been opened and closed (indicating that the driver had exited the vehicle). If something went wrong there is a risk you may wind up locked in your own car with no way to get out from the inside.

But this may be getting ahead of the plans. If it is simply a case of using the EZ-B to replace a start/stop button in a car then it is likely that a relay or tip circuit will work. How to operate would depend on how you operate the start/stop button, some you just touch once others you need to hold down so that would determine if you need to know when the car has started or if the car knowing this is enough.

First and foremost, you need to study the schematics for the car's electronics including any aftermarket electronics that may have been fitted. Then determine where and how to connect in the EZ-B.


Window motors draw a lot of current, you would need something more substantial than the 2.5A controller. Also, most are very sophisticated (auto stop when fully open, stop when trapped objects detected and stop when fully closed. Most of these points are set up by the car's ECU and control modules rather than switches. If going down that route it's most probably advisable to use a tip & relay to short the contacts of the window switch therefore removing the requirement for the motor controller and keeping all of the standard safety features in the car.

In fact, that is the method I would use for everything. Ignition is the only one which may cause a problem due to the electronic immobiliser which requires the correct key with correctly coded chip to be in the ignition.