3d Printing Optimized Models

 
#11

I would suggest Petg. I've been printing with it for the past year. It's stronger than ABS and no fumes. You have to print a bit slower but there is no warping on large parts and you don't need a heated enclosure.

I would also suggest getting Simplfy 3D which supports about every 3d printer on the market. Super fast slicer and I feel prints look better than with stock software for the printers. Simplfy has a superior support generation that creates easy removal and very little post clean up.

#12

Nink.
I have a similar printer to you. You will do well to print some calibration cubes and calibrate that printer. You can download them from Thingiverse.
I also use Simplify3D. I could not get the supports to work wit any other software. I have trouble with ABS and most of my prints are with PLA. The supplier of your filament is important as well. I use Hatchbox. I have problems with other brands. They can be fickle.

To answer your original question here is a part with supports generated by the slicer software. They are the darker orange feature. They are peeled away after the print is complete.

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#13

I'll add to Hatchbox (which i like but i use grey and they are out alot ) , so my new favorite has been Esun. You can find deals on Amazon often.

#14

Wow thanks for the help everyone, Really appreciate the patience and the assistance.

@Perry_S trying the calibration cubes now, Unfortunately I am going to have to hold off on the Simplify3D software (already in the dog house with my recent purchases that just turned up on the last credit card bill and now I need some more parts :-)

@fxrtst I have never heard of PETG, I will take a look at it when I run low on ABS. Looks like it is more durable than ABS when reading the info on the web so maybe ideal for robotics.

@DJ you have a really great community here. I appreciate all the help getting started.

#15

What brand printer do you have. You might benefit by Repetier Host. My printer came with it and it is free. If your machine is a true Prusa there are settings specifically for it. If not, there are ones that can get you close.

I still use Repetier for my print server.

#16

Hey @Perry_S my printer is similar if not the same as yours, Geeetech Pusa i3 Pro B the acrylic one not metal, apart from Pi and LCD looks same as yours. Came in a cardboard box from China in about 100 pieces and I sat there for 24 hours assembling them all together. Was an interesting experience. What I like most about it was that no matter what goes wrong with it, you can fix it because you literally built it. I have Repetier as well. I see they are around $200 US on ebay now

When my credit cards cool down, I will probably buy another one so I can have spare parts in future and speed up printing times.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Print-5-materials-Geeetech-Acrylic-Reprap-Prusa-I3-Pro-B-3D-Printer-MK8-LCD2004/231472986888?hash=item35e4dd7b08:g:r6gAAOSwoudW7764

#17

I played with various printing settings and things improved but I still had issues with strength of objects and printing on my printer. I have started to modify them so they are more in line with my bad printing skills, adding supports and reinforcements in areas that I am struggling with splitting or breaking.

If anyone else wants I will add a package when I am finished to Thingiverse
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#18

You are filling a predictable path. I did the same. Exploring the capabilities of your machine and changing the parts to accommodate. I did it for a long while. I modified many of the parts.
Thing is, the end goal is to not have to do that. So you are kinda shooting yourself in the foot.
Take the time to figure out your printer (the one I have) and work on the end goal. IT will be easy with a bit of patience.

A nice experiment might be to propose a part to print and a few of us can slice it for you and show you how we would do it.

Perry

#19

Hi @Perry_S yes perhaps my "Printer Optimized" parts may not be required if I had mastered my printer. I have not had many problems with my inmoove prints, it is primarily JD that I am having challenges with. Auto creation of supports is not working well so ABS can't bridge with my software. I have annealed the pieces in acetone to reinforce and remove printing imperfections but still they crack when doing headstands etc. Example very small but important pieces like the neck on JD break when doing a somersault with the 3D printed parts but not the real parts.

Perhaps others who have 3D printed JD humanoid's can share experiences.

#20

@Nink I also have an i3, its the MK2 by Josef Prusa...I bought the kit and it took me about 15h to assemble! I must agree that it is worth the time, it is just so rewarding in the end! Grin

@fxrtst I also just started to print in ABS, had to realize that warping is much heavier than PLA, and I noticed the smell of it is quiet heavy! I will try PETG next!
I switched to ABS because I noticed that PLA bends after some time, so I figured it is no use for robotics, but one thing that occurred to me was that ABS cracks really easy when I got the slots for my screws just a bit to tight...PLA was more forgiving on that part! *stress*

Nice you guys mentioned your favorite brands...I am always having a hard time deciding what to buy, availability is a factor too I guess.